Nothing can be evaluated with the style of new potatoes, particularly when they’re homegrown. This humble tuber takes a whilst to mature, and all the magic is going on under the soil’s surface. Plant potatoes too soon, and you may get tiny ones, or leave them in the ground for too long, and they might also start to rot.
So if you’re a new gardener, what’s the satisfactory way to tell when potatoes are ready to harvest? This article will tell you, please keep reading.
When To Harvest Potatoes
When searching to harvest potatoes, you want to differentiate between first earlies, second earlies, and maincrop potatoes, every with its particular harvesting time. Always test the weather and observe the plant’s foliage. If it’s already flowered and the leaves are yellow, it’s nearly time for harvest.
According To Days To Maturity
Not all seed potatoes are created equal. However, now is the perfect time to learn about them, if you’re not formerly familiar with the three main potato types.
So how long do potatoes take to grow according to each variety?
First earlies – sown in late March. Ready for harvest after roughly 90 days – June and July.
Second earlies – sown in mid-April. Ready for harvest after roughly 110 days – July and august.
Maincrop potatoes – sown in late April. Ready for harvest after roughly 135 days – August through October.
Keep in mind that your harvest time relies upon the weather – mark your sowing day on the calendar to understand how tons of time has elapsed. If the weather has been bloodless and rainy, the potatoes may take a longer time to mature, so take that into account as well.
When sowing your potatoes in spring, chitting them may also supply you a head start, specifically if you’re looking to develop fast-maturing early potatoes.
Flowers Can Be a Sign
In fact, you can reach underneath the soil with your gloved hand and “ steal ” A couple of tubers without hurting the plant or the rest of the potatoes.
Flowers are the best indicator that new potatoes are starting to form, and they’ll soon be ready for harvest. Not all kinds flower in the same way, and some won’t flower at each, but if you notice flowers forming, stay for a couple of weeks before gathering some potatoes.
When a potato factory flowers, the new tubers will be about 2 inches in diameter, and they will continue to swell as the flowers turn into fruit. The new potatoes will have thin papery skin that you don’t need to peel – in fact, they’re much more succulent with the skins on.
First earlies and alternate earlies also don’t need any curing period, as they ’re meant to be consumed right away. They will store for a couple of months, but not much longer than that. The main advantage to these potatoes is their timing – they will be ready for harvest much sooner than maincrop or storage potatoes.
How To Harvest Potatoes
Using Your Hands
This method works best if you’re gardening in a small area, using buckets, grow bags, or raised beds.
With buckets and bags, simply lift the factory( you’ll see small tubers hanging from the roots), and turn the bucket or bag upside down inside a wheelbarrow. Pick the potatoes and discard the soil in the compost caddy or put it back on your garden beds.
Inside raised beds, if your soil is ethereal and light, you can do the same thing and look around, feeling for tubers. This method is perfect for occasional crops before the factory is completely mature because it allows the other spuds to keep growing.
Gently Using A Hand Trowel
Using a hand trowel is another way to appear for potatoes interior your raised beds if the soil is a little firmer. Be cautious now not to scrape the skins off potatoes, and cease digging when you experience like you’ve reached a tuber. Ideally, it would be fantastic to dig a perimeter around the potato plant to loosen up the soil and then use your arms to do the rest.
Using A Spading Fork
A spading fork is a stylish tool for digging up potatoes. Use it down from the factory, push down and lift the entire potato factory – tubers and everything.
Using a spading fork works best when you have long rows of potatoes to crop. You could also use a shovel( my parents have done this for decades), but you risk cutting some potatoes which won’t store as well as the complete ones.
How To Store Potatoes
Before they can be stored, potatoes need to go through a curing process. This helps the skin thicken up and extends the storage life of the tubers. To cure potatoes, lay them on review, servers, or cardboard in a cool, dark spot( 50 to 60 f, 10 to 15 c) with high moisture for one to two weeks. Pick a position that offers good air circulation.
Once cured, move the potatoes( removing any that have signs of damage) to bushel baskets, cardboard boxes( with ventilation holes poked in the sides), low baskets, or brown paper bags. You can also find multiple-hole crop storage at numerous theater force stores. Don’t pile them too deeply, still as that can encourage rot to spread. Cover containers with cardboard or sheets of newspaper to block light. The light turns the tubers green and green potatoes contain solanine, a poisonous alkaloid.
The Best Area To Store Potatoes
The storage area should be cooler than the curing site and be dark and well-ventilated. I use a corner of my basement, but a root cellar is best if you have one. You can also store potatoes in a garage, but it should stay above freezing. Aim for the ideal temperature of 40 to 45 f(4.5 to 7 c) with high moisture. Under ideal conditions, storage potatoes can retain quality for six to eight months in long-term storage. Check tubers regularly and remove any that show signs of spoilage or shriveling.